The Royal Site of Carditello
The Royal Site of Carditello
The expression “Bourbon Sites” refers to those territories that were acquired directly by the Crown under the reign of Charles and later Ferdinand IV.
These were usually country farmhouses rich in vegetation, natural pastures, and game, suitable for leisure activities such as hunting and walking.
Among these, one of the least known yet most enchanting (it was called the “Royal Delight”) is the Royal Casino of Carditello, near San Tammaro, south of Capua.
The territory, which exceeded one thousand hectares, belonged to the Count of Acerra. In 1745, King Charles wished to purchase it because it was suitable for hunting (the local marshlands were the ideal habitat for bird species such as pheasants and woodcocks; it was also not uncommon to encounter wild boar, foxes, hares, and even deer) and for breeding both horses and buffaloes. From the females, the milk necessary to produce the world-famous, exquisite mozzarella was (and still is) obtained: in fact, a dairy was immediately established there.
At the center of the land was a “masseria” called “La Foresta,” a storehouse for grain, hay, and various agricultural products. As in the case of San Leucio, this primitive construction was intended to be transformed into a true “royal lodge” to host the Court during hunting trips.
The architect Francesco Collecini, already involved in the arrangement of the Belvedere di San Leucio, was commissioned for the work, although the supervision of the designs was entrusted to Vanvitelli himself.
However, it was Ferdinand IV who wanted to complete the construction and the activation of the farm. Starting in 1784, the stallion stable, the stables, the cowherds’ dwellings, the buffalo stable, the tower where dairy products were processed, the granary, etc., were built.
On either side of the lodge, eight towers were built, used on the upper floors as homes for the site’s inhabitants. The site is preceded by a large arena for rural festivals and horse races, and bordered at the back by two vast square courtyards. The entire estate covered 1,750 hectares.
In Ferdinand’s intentions, Carditello “contrasted” with San Leucio, in the sense that, unlike the innovative experience of the latter, it served to highlight his adherence to traditional agricultural policy.
The Royal Lodge
The entire complex extends for about 300 meters in length and consists, as mentioned, of a central building—sober and elegant, with two floors—and two lateral wings, separated from the main building by two deep entrance halls; however, every room is actually closely connected to the others, witnessing the absence of barriers between the Court and the community.
On the ground floor are the kitchens, the armory, and the staff rooms. Two symmetrical staircases lead to the upper floor, which housed the rooms intended for the royal family and the reception hall for gatherings organized upon returning from the hunt.
Particularly interesting is the small church, in a typically eighteenth-century style, on whose decorations (as well as those of the central building) the greatest artists of the Court worked, including Philip Hackert (frescoist and decorator of the Royal Sites). Tapestries by Pietro Durante based on cartoons by Fischetti enriched the main hall, whose vault was frescoed by Fischetti himself.
The site, as always, was abandoned after 1861 and fell into ruin (there were even wicked acts of “political iconoclasm,” in the sense that frescoes representing the Bourbons were scraped away…).
It has now been partially restored and has been open to the public since 1978; it also houses the Museum of Rural Life.
